Last summer marked the beginning of a new chapter in our lives.
After more than a decade of living in Phuket, Thailand, we finally set off on our long-awaited nomadic journey.
It was a whirlwind start, with much of the summer spent between the UK and Mexico. But as the season drew to a close, we embarked on a fantastic road trip to see friends, all of whom lived, quite conveniently, along the French Riviera.
The trip wasn’t just about the stunning coastline, historic towns, and indulgent food (though there was plenty of that!). It was also a chance to reconnect with old friends, visit places that have been on our list for years, and experience the Riviera in a way we’ll never forget.
Over 10 glorious days, we made our way from the south of France, through picturesque villages and glamorous cities, all the way to Monaco, crafting an itinerary filled with adventures, detours, and unforgettable moments.
If you’re planning a French Riviera road trip, I hope our journey inspires you. From hiking windy cliffs to stumbling across a bagpipe player in the most unexpected place, dining where Brigitte Bardot once sipped her wine, and exploring ancient Roman sites, here’s how we did it – and how you can too.
Ready to explore the Côte d’Azur? Let’s dive in!
Day 1. Toulouse to Narbonne: A Journey Through History and Hidden Gems
Toulouse: The City of Pink Bricks and Blue Wealth
We kicked off our trip in Toulouse, a city brimming with history, vibrant culture, and a unique charm.
Known as La Ville Rose (The Pink City) due to its terracotta brick architecture, Toulouse is a fascinating mix of the old and the new. Grand churches and cathedrals sit comfortably alongside modern student hangouts and the aerospace industry.
With only a day to make the most of it, we joined a brilliant walking tour that gave us a deep dive into the city’s rich history.
Highlights included the stunning Basilique Saint-Sernin, one of the largest Romanesque churches in Europe, and the elegant Couvent des Jacobins, known for its peaceful cloisters and unique palm-tree-shaped column. We also got a glimpse of the beautiful Garonne River, the Pont Neuf and learned how Toulouse’s strategic location helped it flourish as a trading hub.
One of the most interesting stories we heard was how Toulouse became incredibly wealthy in the Middle Ages thanks to woad, a plant used to produce a rich blue dye for cloth. This trade not only shaped the city’s fortunes but also influenced its architecture and culture.
Today, Toulouse is a buzzing and well kept city, thanks to its student population and its status as the headquarters of Airbus, which keeps the city firmly grounded in the modern era.
If you visit, don’t miss wandering through the narrow streets, popping into cafés for a bite of cassoulet, and exploring the many green spaces like the Jardin des Plantes.
Toulouse is a city that deserves at least a full day, but if you’re pressed for time, a walking tour is the best way to experience its highlights.
Narbonne: A Quick Stop with Historic Charm
After Toulouse, we headed to Narbonne for a one-night stop to see friends and enjoy a quieter side of Southern France.
This charming town, once an important Roman port, still retains its historical significance. The Narbonne Cathedral, also known as Cathédrale Saint-Just-et-Saint-Pasteur, is a must-see, with its impressive Gothic architecture and towering presence over the town.
We also strolled along the banks of The Canal de la Robine, a branch of the Canal du Midi.
Although our visit was short, it was wonderful to catch up with old friends and revisit this beautiful town! It was also a lovely laid back introduction to the South of France before heading further along the Riviera.
Next, we headed deeper into the countryside, toward Reynes near Céret, where our adventures truly began.
Day 2-4. Reynes, Céret, and the Stunning Coastline: A Mix of Rural Charm and Coastal Adventure
Finding Reynes: A Detour to Spain (By Accident!)
After leaving Narbonne, we drove deep into the countryside, heading for the small village of Reynes near Céret.
Our friends live in a remote and idyllic spot at the top of a maze of narrow, winding dirt roads. Finding them was an adventure in itself, especially when we missed the turn-off entirely and unexpectedly ended up crossing the border into Spain!
It wasn’t until our sat nav and phone WiFi stopped working that it dawned on us we’d gone too far. A quick U-turn later, (plus a toilet stop at the border), we were back on track, winding our way through beautiful rural landscapes and finally arriving at their stunning home.
Their house, a converted guesthouse, is nestled in the feet of the Pyrenees, and spread across three charming levels. With views of the surrounding countryside and an air of tranquillity, it felt like a perfect retreat.
After settling in, and lots of cuddles and Hello kisses, we spent a few days eating cheese, drinking wine and exploring this lesser-known corner of Southern France.
Exploring Céret: Art, History, and Local Charm
Just a short drive from Reynes, Céret is a delightful town steeped in history and culture.
Known as an artists’ haven, Céret has been home to famous names like Picasso, Braque, and Chagall, who were drawn to its light and beauty. The Museum of Modern Art is a must-visit, showcasing works by these artists and celebrating the town’s artistic legacy.
It is a charming town to wander about with narrow, cobbled lanes, lined with cafés, little intriguing art galleries, and shops selling local specialties. All set within the confines of the ancient medieval walls that once protected this historic town.
One evening after exploring all the little galleries, we had starters at the famous Dali tapas bar alongside an Aperol Spritz (or two) and enjoyed a lovely meal in the centre of town.
If you’re visiting, take your time strolling the plane tree-lined boulevards, soaking in the laid-back atmosphere of this historic town.
Hiking to the Old Tin Mine
One of the highlights of our stay was a hike to an old tin mine near Reynes. The trail was rugged and surrounded by untouched nature, offering breathtaking views of the hills and valleys.
As we climbed higher, we could see traces of the mine’s history, with abandoned structures, an old miners cottage, and hints of the industry that once thrived there. It was a fascinating glimpse into the region’s past and a great way to work off some of the indulgent French food we’d been enjoying.
From Plage du Racou to Collioure: A Windy Coastal Walk
The friend I was visiting here is a bonafide athlete, so hiking was a big part of our adventures, but even she hesitated for this one with the wind warnings.
However, after a few wines the night before, I was keen to walk it off, so we set off on a coastal adventure from Plage du Racou, to the picturesque town of Collioure.
The trail hugged the coastline, offering stunning views of the Mediterranean as it sparkled in the sun. But gusts of wind up to 50km/hour made parts of the walk feel more like a battle than a stroll!
It was well worth it though. Collioure is a dream of a seaside town. Its colourful houses, historic castle, and charming harbour make it picture-perfect.
We rewarded ourselves with a fabulous Spanish omelette soaking up the rays sitting by the water, and followed with a leisurely exploration of the town’s winding streets, hidden corners and gelato shops!
On route back, we stumbled across a French bagpipe player who was happy to perform an impromptu tune just for us! It was a surreal and joyful moment that perfectly captured the charm of exploring off the beaten path.
Why This Region is a Must-Visit
Reynes and Céret are perfect for those who want to experience a quieter, more authentic side of Southern France, while the coastal towns of Racou and Collioure offer the drama and beauty of the Mediterranean.
Whether you’re hiking historic trails, soaking in the artistic heritage of Céret, or braving the wind for a spectacular cliff walk, this region has something for everyone.
Next, we traded the rural charm of Céret for the historical grandeur of Arles. Stay tuned for Roman ruins, Van Gogh inspiration, and a deep dive into the city’s cultural treasures.
Day 5. Arles: Roman History and Van Gogh’s Inspiration
After saying goodbye to our friends in Reynes, we set off for Arles, a city steeped in history and culture.
Known for its well-preserved Roman ruins and connection to Vincent van Gogh, Arles was a fascinating stop on our journey. Unfortunately we only had an afternoon to explore, but it’s definitely a place I’d like to return too.
Roman Ruins: Stepping Back in Time
Arles was once a prominent Roman city, and its ancient heritage is still visible today.
We started at the Arènes d’Arles, a magnificent Roman amphitheatre that has stood for nearly 2,000 years. Once the site of gladiatorial battles, it now hosts modern events, including concerts and bullfights.
We didn’t have the time to explore the inside so that’s something for the next trip!
Nearby, the Théâtre Antique (Roman Theatre) is another must-see. Although it’s not as intact as the amphitheatre, it has a charm of its own, with fragments of columns and seating offering a glimpse of its former grandeur.
It was preparing for a concert while we were there and I can easily imagine what a fantastic atmosphere that would be under the stars surrounded by huge roman columns.
Van Gogh’s Arles
Arles is also famous for its connection to Vincent van Gogh, who spent a productive period here painting some of his most iconic works.
While the original artworks are scattered across the globe, you can follow in his footsteps by visiting landmarks that inspired his paintings.
One highlight is the Espace Van Gogh, a former hospital where Van Gogh stayed after famously cutting off his ear. The building’s courtyard, now filled with colourful flowers, feels like stepping into one of his canvases. (Unfortunately I didn’t get a great photo so borrowed the one above!)
Another iconic spot is the Café Terrace at Night, which inspired his famous painting of the same name. It’s still a working café today, and although it’s now a bit touristy, it’s worth stopping by for a coffee and a photo.
Strolling Through History
I had engineered a bit of a sightseeing walking tour and also wanted to visit Alyscamps, an ancient Roman necropolis lined with stone sarcophagi and shaded by tall trees.
Even from the entrance you can see that it’s going to be hauntingly beautiful. However, we were against the clock and so have had to add this one to a future visit also. (I said I wanted to go back!)
For a quick bite, the local markets are fantastic, brimming with Provençal produce, lavender-scented goods, and freshly baked bread.
If you have more time, the Musée Départemental Arles Antique offers a deeper dive into the city’s Roman history, complete with mosaics, sculptures, and a preserved Roman barge.
Why Arles Deserves a Stop
Even if you only have an afternoon like we did, Arles is well worth the visit. Its combination of Roman ruins, artistic heritage, and Provençal charm makes it a unique stop along the French Riviera route.
Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover, or simply looking for a beautiful place to explore, Arles has something to offer.
Next, we traded history for the glamour of Port Grimaud and St Tropez. Think canals, yachts, and an evening in the company of French Riviera legends. Let’s go!
Day 6. Port Grimaud and St Tropez: From Quiet Canals to Glamorous Nights
Settling into Port Grimaud
A couple of hours on from Arles, we arrived in Port Grimaud, often referred to as the “Venice of Provence.” This charming marina town is a maze of canals, colourful houses, and small bridges that give it an almost otherworldly feel.
Our friends have an AirBnB apartment right on the river and had kindly invited us to stay there for a couple of nights. It was the perfect spot to slow down and unwind after the busy days behind us.
We spent the first evening strolling around the marina, watching the sun set over the water while small boats bobbed lazily in the breeze. With the tranquillity of the canals and the picturesque architecture, I could see myself relaxing here for more than a few days!
Exploring Port Grimaud and Beyond
The next morning, we decided to explore further and hopped onto a tourist mini-train that takes you up to the hilltop village of Grimaud, a short ride away. The journey itself was fun (albeit a little chilly) and offered beautiful views of the surrounding countryside as we climbed higher.
At the top, Grimaud didn’t disappoint. The narrow cobbled streets and stone houses felt like stepping into a fairytale. I kept expecting Jack and his beans to pop out of one of the little colourful doors.
We wandered through the village, exploring its quiet charm and taking in views of the surrounding landscape. Highlights include the Château de Grimaud, a medieval castle that offers stunning panoramas of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez.
However, after a stroll about the place, we quickly discovered that in true French style, many of the village’s museums and attractions close for a long lunch break, and we had arrived at just after 1pm!
Undeterred, we strolled through the quaint streets, stopped at a café tucked away in a pretty courtyard, and enjoyed a coffee/glass of wine while soaking up the atmosphere. It was one of those moments where simply being there felt like enough.
St Tropez: Glamour and Sailing Spectacles
That evening, we shifted gears and drove into St Tropez, a town synonymous with glitz and glamour.
By pure chance, our visit coincided with the final night of the Les Voiles de St Tropez, the famous sailing regatta that attracts some of the world’s most impressive yachts and plenty of spectators. The harbour was alive with energy, buzzing with the sounds of music, laughter, and clinking glasses.
We joined friends for dinner at Le Quai, a chic waterfront restaurant that was as much about the scene as the food. The outdoor terrace offered prime views of the harbour, where yachts lit up the night sky, and the live performances gave the place an electric atmosphere. As did the bill at the end of the night!
After dinner, our friends invited us to join them for a drink at the iconic Hotel Byblos, a legendary hotspot known for hosting the likes of Brigitte Bardot, Mick Jagger, and many more over the years.
Sitting there, sipping our (v.expensive) cocktails, we couldn’t help but imagine the stories those walls must hold!
Why Port Grimaud and St Tropez Should Be on Your List
Port Grimaud offers a peaceful contrast to the bustling Riviera towns, with its serene canals and relaxed pace. Whether you’re exploring its charming marina or taking a train ride up to the historic hilltop village of Grimaud, it’s a lovely place to unwind.
St Tropez, on the other hand, is everything you’d expect—glamorous, lively, and a little over the top in the best way. If you’re visiting in late September or October, try to time your trip with Les Voiles de St Tropez for an unforgettable experience. Dinner at Le Quai and a nightcap at Hotel Byblos are the perfect way to soak in the town’s legendary status and completely blow your entire holiday budget!
From here, our journey continued east to Antibes, where we rented an apartment and began exploring even more of the Riviera’s iconic towns. Next stop: Cannes, Monaco, and the final stretch in Nice!
Day 7 – 9. Antibes, Cannes, and Monaco: Riviera Icons and Day Trip Adventures
Day 7 – Antibes: Old Town Charm and Picasso’s Legacy
Antibes I love you and I’ll be back!
After settling into our rented apartment near Antibes, we headed off to explore this charming seaside town. And I loved it!
Unfortunately we only had a few hours, but this afforded us time to wander through the old town, down narrow cobbled streets lined with artisan shops and cafés.
We then took a leisurely stroll along the Cap d’Antibes coastal path, a scenic trail offering breathtaking views of the Mediterranean and an interesting collection of acrobatic bronze sculptures adorning buildings & the pathway.
They are the work of Nicolas Lavarenne, a French sculptor who is widely admired for its fusion of classical anatomy with contemporary, gravity-defying poses!
A highlight of Antibes is the Picasso Museum, located in the ancient Château Grimaldi overlooking the sea. Picasso lived and worked here for a brief but prolific period, and the museum displays some of his paintings, sketches, and ceramics.
Unfortunately we didn’t have time to explore further, but I will most definitely return at some point to rent a small apartment and stay for a while to soak up the laid back vibe of this beautiful coastal town.
Day 8 – Cannes: A Taste of Glamour
The next day, we ventured into Cannes, famous for its film festival and luxury lifestyle. Walking along La Croisette, Cannes’ iconic boulevard, we admired the grand hotels, designer boutiques, and sparkling blue waters of the Mediterranean.
We couldn’t resist stopping by the Palais des Festivals, the venue for the Cannes Film Festival. While the red carpet wasn’t rolled out for us, it was fun to imagine the glitz and glamour that this spot sees every year.
For a change of pace, we explored the Le Suquet district, Cannes’ old quarter. Perched on a hill, its narrow streets lead up to the Église Notre-Dame d’Espérance, where you’re rewarded with panoramic views of the city and harbour. Le Suquet feels worlds apart from the glitzy waterfront and offers a more authentic side of Cannes.
Other than that however, I didn’t find Cannes that alluring. I don’t think it would make my list of places to return to.
Day 9 – Monaco: The Playground of the Rich and Famous
Monaco however, is something entirely different.
No trip to the French Riviera is complete without a visit to Monaco, and we made it our next stop.
As we drove into this tiny principality, we were greeted by the sight of luxury yachts lined up in the harbour, and the distant winding streets into the hills reminding me of old Princess Grace and Cary Grant movies!
Our first stop was the Monte Carlo Casino, a landmark synonymous with elegance and extravagance. While we didn’t try our luck at the tables, just walking around this magnificent building was an experience. The casino square itself is a sight to behold, with its grand fountain, luxury cars, and stunning architecture.
We also took time to explore Monaco-Ville, the old town perched on a rocky cliff. Here, we visited the Prince’s Palace, the official residence of Monaco’s royal family, and strolled through the Saint-Martin Gardens, which offer breathtaking views over the Mediterranean.
A highlight was the Oceanographic Museum, a magnificent building dedicated to marine science and conservation. It’s packed with fascinating exhibits, from vibrant aquariums to displays on sea exploration, and is a must-visit for anyone traveling with kids (or just curious adults!).
We were hit by a particularly ferocious rain storm and took cover at Cafe Milano, a lovely little restaurant on the harbour where we treated ourselves to an overpriced glass of wine and a salad. When in Monaco…
Why These Stops Are a Must
Antibes offers a quieter, more authentic Riviera experience with its markets, art, and scenic coastal walks.
Cannes is perfect for a touch of glamour and indulgence, while Monaco feels like stepping into a world of unimaginable luxury and history.
Whether you’re wandering through charming old streets or marvelling at the yachts of billionaires, each destination has its own unique appeal.
We wrapped up our Riviera adventure with a quick but memorable visit to Nice, taking in its highlights before flying back to the UK. Let’s finish this journey on a high note!
Day 10. Nice: A Grande Finale to the Perfect Riviera Adventure
Our final destination on this French Riviera road trip was Nice, a city known for its lively atmosphere, historic landmarks, and stunning coastline.
With limited time, we decided to hop on an open-air bus tour to make the most of our afternoon. While we didn’t have the chance to explore every stop in depth, the tour gave us a great overview of the city and its surrounding gems, making it clear that Nice needs to be on my ‘return to and explore further’ list.
A Whirlwind Tour Of Nice
The bus tour took us along the iconic Promenade des Anglais, a wide boulevard running alongside the Mediterranean. It’s one of the most famous landmarks in Nice and a great spot for walking, cycling, or simply sitting on a bench and soaking up the views.
Even from the bus, it was easy to see why this stretch is so beloved—palm trees, pastel-coloured façades, and the sparkling sea create a perfect picture of Riviera life.
Another key highlight was Castle Hill (Colline du Château), a historic site overlooking the city. While we didn’t have time to stop and climb, it’s home to a park, waterfalls, and ruins, along with unbeatable views of Nice and its coastline. It’s firmly on our list for a future visit.
The bus tour also passed through Place Masséna, Nice’s central square. Its distinctive black-and-white tiled floor, fountains, and colourful buildings make it a vibrant spot to explore.
Nearby, the Old Town (Vieux Nice) is packed with narrow streets, markets, and restaurants, perfect for wandering and discovering the city’s history and culture.
Villefranche-sur-Mer: A Coastal Gem Next Door
One of the unexpected highlights of the tour was a brief drive through Villefranche-sur-Mer, a small beach town just outside Nice. Perched on the hillside overlooking a stunning natural harbour, it’s known for its colourful buildings and crystal-clear waters.
While we didn’t have time to stop and explore, the panoramic views from the bus gave us a clear sense of why it’s such a popular destination. Villefranche-sur-Mer is home to sandy beaches, quaint streets, and plenty of waterfront cafés and restaurants. Next time, it’ll definitely be worth setting aside a few hours to enjoy it properly.
What We Missed (And Why We’ll Be Back)
Although we covered a lot of ground with the bus tour, there’s still so much of Nice left to explore. We didn’t get the chance to wander the Old Town, visit the Cours Saleya Market, or climb Castle Hill for those incredible views.
Nice is also home to several excellent museums, including the Matisse Museum and the Marc Chagall National Museum, which celebrate the works of two artists closely associated with the region. For art lovers, these are must-visits, and we’d love to add them to our itinerary next time.
Villefranche-sur-Mer, too, deserves more than a quick glimpse. Its charming streets and relaxed vibe make it an ideal spot to escape the busier Riviera towns.
With its mix of history, culture, and breathtaking views, Nice is more than just a gateway to the Riviera, it’s a destination in its own right. While we only scratched the surface this time, it left us with plenty of reasons to return.
If you’re planning a trip, give yourself at least a couple of days to fully experience everything this city has to offer.
The End of Our Riviera Adventure
And so, our whirlwind journey through the French Riviera came to an end, leaving us with memories of charming villages, coastal hikes, historic cities, and moments of glamour.
From the ancient streets of Céret to the bustling harbours of St Tropez, every stop offered something unique and unforgettable.
While we saw so much, there’s still plenty left to explore. The Riviera has a way of drawing you back, and we’re already looking forward to the day we return to uncover even more of its magic.
FAQs About French Riviera Cities & Itineraries
What are the must-visit French Riviera cities?
The French Riviera is home to some of the most stunning cities in France. Must-visit French Riviera cities include Nice (famous for its Promenade des Anglais), Cannes (known for its film festival and luxury vibes), Monaco (a glamorous city-state with a world-famous casino), Antibes (for charming old-town vibes and beaches), and Saint-Tropez (a hotspot for luxury and nightlife).
How many days do I need for a French Riviera itinerary?
A French Riviera itinerary can range from a weekend getaway to a two-week deep dive. A 3-5 day itinerary is ideal for covering key French Riviera cities like Nice, Cannes, Monaco, and Antibes, while a 7-10 day trip allows for exploring smaller coastal towns like Èze, Menton, and Saint-Tropez at a relaxed pace.
What is the best way to travel between French Riviera cities?
The best way to explore French Riviera cities is by train, car, or even ferry for certain coastal routes. The TER train runs frequently between Nice, Cannes, Antibes, and Monaco, making it a convenient and scenic way to travel. Renting a car offers flexibility, especially for a French Riviera itinerary that includes hilltop villages like Èze.
When is the best time to visit the French Riviera?
The best time to visit French Riviera cities is spring (April-June) and early autumn (September-October) when the weather is warm but not too crowded. Summer (July-August) is peak season, with lively beaches and festivals, while winter offers a quieter but still pleasant experience, especially in cities like Nice and Menton.
Which French Riviera city is best for beaches?
If you’re planning a French Riviera itinerary with a focus on beaches, Nice has long pebbled beaches along the Promenade des Anglais, Cannes offers sandy shores, Saint-Tropez has exclusive beach clubs, and Antibes is home to hidden coves perfect for a more relaxed experience.
Can I visit multiple French Riviera cities in one day?
Yes! Many French Riviera cities are close together, making it easy to visit multiple locations in one day. For example, a day trip from Nice can include Monaco and Èze, or you can combine Cannes and Antibes. A well-planned French Riviera itinerary allows for seamless day trips using trains or car rentals.
Do I need a car for a French Riviera itinerary?
A car isn’t essential for visiting major French Riviera cities like Nice, Cannes, and Monaco, as the train system is efficient. However, if your French Riviera itinerary includes inland villages like Saint-Paul-de-Vence or the Gorges du Verdon, renting a car is recommended.
