Last summer marked the beginning of a new chapter in our lives.
After more than a decade of living in Phuket, Thailand, we finally set off on our long-awaited nomadic journey.
It was a whirlwind start, with much of the summer spent between the UK and Mexico. But as the season drew to a close, we embarked on a fantastic road trip to see friends, all of whom lived, quite conveniently, along the French Riviera.
The trip wasn’t just about the stunning coastline, historic towns, and indulgent food (though there was plenty of that!). It was also a chance to reconnect with old friends, visit places that have been on our list for years, and experience the Riviera in a way we’ll never forget.
Over 10 glorious days, we made our way from the south of France, through picturesque villages and glamorous cities, all the way to Monaco, crafting an itinerary filled with adventures, detours, and unforgettable moments.
If you’re planning a French Riviera road trip, I hope our journey inspires you. From hiking windy cliffs to stumbling across a bagpipe player in the most unexpected place, dining where Brigitte Bardot once sipped her wine, and exploring ancient Roman sites, here’s how we did it – and how you can too.
Ready to explore the Côte d’Azur? Let’s dive in!
Day 1. Toulouse to Narbonne: A Journey Through History and Hidden Gems
Toulouse: The City of Pink Bricks and Blue Wealth
We kicked off our trip in Toulouse, a city brimming with history, vibrant culture, and a unique charm.
Known as La Ville Rose (The Pink City) due to its terracotta brick architecture, Toulouse is a fascinating mix of the old and the new. Grand churches and cathedrals sit comfortably alongside modern student hangouts and the aerospace industry.
With only a day to make the most of it, we joined a brilliant walking tour that gave us a deep dive into the city’s rich history.
Highlights included the stunning Basilique Saint-Sernin, one of the largest Romanesque churches in Europe, and the elegant Couvent des Jacobins, known for its peaceful cloisters and unique palm-tree-shaped column. We also got a glimpse of the beautiful Garonne River, the Pont Neuf and learned how Toulouse’s strategic location helped it flourish as a trading hub.
One of the most interesting stories we heard was how Toulouse became incredibly wealthy in the Middle Ages thanks to woad, a plant used to produce a rich blue dye for cloth. This trade not only shaped the city’s fortunes but also influenced its architecture and culture.
Today, Toulouse is a buzzing and well kept city, thanks to its student population and its status as the headquarters of Airbus, which keeps the city firmly grounded in the modern era.
If you visit, don’t miss wandering through the narrow streets, popping into cafés for a bite of cassoulet, and exploring the many green spaces like the Jardin des Plantes.
Toulouse is a city that deserves at least a full day, but if you’re pressed for time, a walking tour is the best way to experience its highlights.
Narbonne: A Quick Stop with Historic Charm
After Toulouse, we headed to Narbonne for a one-night stop to see friends and enjoy a quieter side of Southern France.
This charming town, once an important Roman port, still retains its historical significance. The Narbonne Cathedral, also known as Cathédrale Saint-Just-et-Saint-Pasteur, is a must-see, with its impressive Gothic architecture and towering presence over the town.
We also strolled along the banks of The Canal de la Robine, a branch of the Canal du Midi.
Although our visit was short, it was wonderful to catch up with old friends and revisit this beautiful town! It was also a lovely laid back introduction to the South of France before heading further along the Riviera.
Next, we headed deeper into the countryside, toward Reynes near Céret, where our adventures truly began.
Day 2-4. Reynes, Céret, and the Stunning Coastline: A Mix of Rural Charm and Coastal Adventure
Finding Reynes: A Detour to Spain (By Accident!)
After leaving Narbonne, we drove deep into the countryside, heading for the small village of Reynes near Céret.
Our friends live in a remote and idyllic spot at the top of a maze of narrow, winding dirt roads. Finding them was an adventure in itself, especially when we missed the turn-off entirely and unexpectedly ended up crossing the border into Spain!
It wasn’t until our sat nav and phone WiFi stopped working that it dawned on us we’d gone too far. A quick U-turn later, (plus a toilet stop at the border), we were back on track, winding our way through beautiful rural landscapes and finally arriving at their stunning home.
Their house, a converted guesthouse, is nestled in the feet of the Pyrenees, and spread across three charming levels. With views of the surrounding countryside and an air of tranquillity, it felt like a perfect retreat.
After settling in, and lots of cuddles and Hello kisses, we spent a few days eating cheese, drinking wine and exploring this lesser-known corner of Southern France.
Exploring Céret: Art, History, and Local Charm
Just a short drive from Reynes, Céret is a delightful town steeped in history and culture.
Known as an artists’ haven, Céret has been home to famous names like Picasso, Braque, and Chagall, who were drawn to its light and beauty. The Museum of Modern Art is a must-visit, showcasing works by these artists and celebrating the town’s artistic legacy.
It is a charming town to wander about with narrow, cobbled lanes, lined with cafés, little intriguing art galleries, and shops selling local specialties. All set within the confines of the ancient medieval walls that once protected this historic town.
One evening after exploring all the little galleries, we had starters at the famous Dali tapas bar alongside an Aperol Spritz (or two) and enjoyed a lovely meal in the centre of town.
If you’re visiting, take your time strolling the plane tree-lined boulevards, soaking in the laid-back atmosphere of this historic town.
Hiking to the Old Tin Mine
One of the highlights of our stay was a hike to an old tin mine near Reynes. The trail was rugged and surrounded by untouched nature, offering breathtaking views of the hills and valleys.
As we climbed higher, we could see traces of the mine’s history, with abandoned structures, an old miners cottage, and hints of the industry that once thrived there. It was a fascinating glimpse into the region’s past and a great way to work off some of the indulgent French food we’d been enjoying.
From Plage du Racou to Collioure: A Windy Coastal Walk
The friend I was visiting here is a bonafide athlete, so hiking was a big part of our adventures, but even she hesitated for this one with the wind warnings.
However, after a few wines the night before, I was keen to walk it off, so we set off on a coastal adventure from Plage du Racou, to the picturesque town of Collioure.
The trail hugged the coastline, offering stunning views of the Mediterranean as it sparkled in the sun. But gusts of wind up to 50km/hour made parts of the walk feel more like a battle than a stroll!
It was well worth it though. Collioure is a dream of a seaside town. Its colourful houses, historic castle, and charming harbour make it picture-perfect.