New Zealand’s Far North (sounds like something out of a Disney movie), is a land of rugged coastlines, ancient forests, fascinating history, and some of the country’s most stunning beaches. All with fewer crowds than the South Island’s hotspots.
For me, this New Zealand road trip was more than just sightseeing. It was house-sitting in charming little towns, stumbling upon quirky museums, getting lost on remote islands, and watching history come alive in places that felt untouched by time. From glowworm caves in Waipu to the windswept beauty of Cape Reinga, every stop on this journey had something special.
So, if you’re planning a Northland New Zealand road trip, I’ve put together a day-by-day itinerary, blending our real experiences with practical travel advice to help you make the most of your adventure.
How Long Should You Spend in Northland?
You could rush through in 4-5 days, but to really soak it in, I recommend 8-10 days—giving you time to explore hidden gems, take coastal hikes, and enjoy the laid-back charm of this region.
We spent 18 days travelling through Northland, and while we packed in a lot, there were places I’d happily stay longer (I’m looking at you, Russell!).
The Best Time to Visit Northland
- Summer (Dec-Feb) – Warm, sunny, and perfect for beach days, but busier.
- Autumn (Mar-May) – Fewer crowds, still warm enough to swim, and stunning scenery.
- Winter (Jun-Aug) – Cooler but quiet, great for hiking and exploring without the crowds.
- Spring (Sep-Nov) – Green landscapes, mild temperatures, and fewer tourists.
We visited at the end of January into early February, which meant the weather was almost perfect! Highs of 28-30, lots of sunny days and plenty of coastal breezes to cool you down. 🙂
How to Get Around
🚗 Self-Drive – Renting a car is the best way to explore Northland at your own pace. We hired a Toyota Camry ($1100 NZD for 19 days – $600US/£500GBP) and the roads were easy to get around with minimal traffic in most places
⛴ Ferries – You’ll need to take a short car ferry from Opua to Russell, and again from KohuKohu to Rawene if you come back down the West Coast. They run frequently and are super easy (and fun!)
Northland New Zealand Road Trip Itinerary: Day-by-Day Breakdown
Each day, I’ll share where we went, what we did, unexpected moments, plus practical travel tips so you can plan your own adventure!
Day 1: Auckland to Waipu
After landing in Auckland and grabbing our rental car, we hit the road north toward Waipu, a town I hadn’t heard much about before this trip. The drive took around two hours, and as we left the city behind, the scenery quickly shifted to rolling green hills, winding coastal roads, and the kind of landscapes that make you want to pull over every five minutes for a photo.
Waipu turned out to be a small but fascinating place with an unexpected Scottish connection.
In the mid-1800s, around 900 Highlanders, led by the fiercely determined Reverend Norman McLeod, fled economic hardship in Scotland, settled briefly in Nova Scotia, then continued their search for a better life.
After a 20,000-mile journey spanning generations, they finally arrived in Waipu. Their legacy is still woven into the town’s identity, from its Highland street names to the long-running New Year’s Day Highland Games.
We only ended up in Waipu because of a house-sitting gig, looking after a gorgeous dog named Autumn. She was an absolute sweetheart, and while we thought we were just here for some dog cuddles and downtime, we ended up discovering so much more.
Things to Do in Waipu
- Waipu Museum – A small but fascinating museum telling the story of the Scottish Highlanders who settled here. Well worth a visit to understand the town’s history.
- Waipu Glowworm Caves – An underground network of caves where thousands of glowworms light up the ceilings like a starry night. It was impossible to get great photos with my phone, but the experience was incredible.
- Waipu Beach – A beautiful stretch of coastline, perfect for a walk or a quick dip.
- Coastal Walk to Pancake Rocks – A stunning clifftop trail with incredible ocean views, leading to unique layered limestone formations made up of compressed shells and coral.
We spent three nights in Waipu, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere before continuing our journey north, however you only need a day here if driving through.
Where We Stayed
House-sitting via TrustedHousesitters (3 nights – free!).
Food & Costs
We shopped for most of our food here as we had a kitchen, but a meal for two in New Zealand with a couple of cold ones, will set you back around $100 (NZD) – ($60 USD / £50 GBP)
Next stop, Whangārei!
Day 2: Waipu to Whangārei
The drive from Waipu to Whangārei took about 40 minutes, an easy stretch of road winding past farmland and rolling hills before reaching Northland’s largest city. With a population of around 100,000, Whangārei felt more like a big town than a city, but it had plenty to keep us entertained for the day.
We started at Town Basin, a lovely waterfront area packed with restaurants, cafés, boutique shops, and a very tempting fudge store. But the real highlights were the unexpected and quirky attractions that made Whangārei more interesting than I had imagined.
Things to Do in Whangārei
- Hundertwasser Art Centre – I had no idea who Friedensreich Hundertwasser was before visiting, but I left completely fascinated. This Austrian-born artist, architect, and environmentalist was obsessed with color, nature, and rejecting straight lines. His designs look like something out of a children’s book, with wavy floors, vibrant mosaics, and trees growing out of windows. One of his final projects was this art center in Whangārei, and it’s absolutely worth a visit.
- Claphams National Clock Museum – I wasn’t planning on visiting a museum dedicated to clocks, but for $10, I figured why not? Turns out, it was fascinating. The collection started with 400 clocks donated by a local character named Archibald Clapham, and it has since grown to 1,400 timepieces, from tiny pocket watches to enormous grandfather clocks, all ticking, chiming, and ringing in their own unique way.
- Whangārei Falls & AH Reed Kauri Walk – Just a short drive from the city, this 26-meter waterfall was a perfect place for a quick stop and some great photos. The nearby AH Reed Kauri Forest Walk was an easy 4km trail through towering kauri trees, some of them thousands of years old.
- Glass-Blowing Studio – Walking back from the fudge shop, slurping a strawberry milkshake, I stumbled into a glass-blowing studio. I stood mesmerized, watching molten glass transform into delicate, colorful sculptures. The artist made it look effortless, but I can only imagine the disaster if I had tried it myself.
- Quality Street for Dinner – Not the chocolate, unfortunately, but a charming little street with great restaurants. We ate at an Israeli place called Fat Camel, which I certainly felt like by the end of the meal.
Where We Stayed
Distinction Hotel – $200 per night (town view).
Food & Costs
Breakfast – Café stop in Town Basin
Dinner – Fat Camel, $100 (NZD) for two
Whangārei turned out to be a surprisingly fun stop, with its mix of art, history, nature, and great food. We actually stayed 2 nights here as we had some meetings and a bit of work to do also, and I would actually recommend a couple of nights here. Enjoy the town basin and all the museums etc on one day and then the Kauri walk & Waterfall the next day. But you could fit it all in in one day if you’re pushed for time.
Next, we hit the road toward Russell in the Bay of Islands.
Day 3: Whangārei to Russell
The drive from Whangārei to Russell took about 1.5 hours, including the short car ferry ride from Opua. The route north was beautiful, winding past rolling farmland, coastal inlets, and forests before reaching the Bay of Islands.
Russell is a quaint, picturesque waterfront town, but it has a wild past. In the early 1800s, it was a lawless settlement known as the “Hell Hole of the Pacific,” filled with whalers, escaped convicts, and sailors looking for rum, women, and a fight. It was notorious for its debauchery, with more grog shops than houses. These days, however, it’s one of the most peaceful and charming spots in New Zealand, with its colonial buildings, waterfront cafés, and incredible views of the bay.
Things to Do in Russell
- Christ Church – The oldest surviving church in New Zealand, built in 1835. It still bears musket bullet holes from the battles of the 1840s, a stark reminder of the region’s turbulent past.
- Pompallier Mission – A beautifully restored French Catholic mission house from the 1840s, where missionaries printed thousands of Māori-language books. The tour here was one of the best we did, giving a real insight into early European settlement and Māori history.
- Russell Museum – A small but fascinating museum with exhibits on whaling, Māori culture, and the town’s early days as a lawless outpost.
- Long Beach – A short walk from the town center, this secluded beach has golden sand and incredible views of the islands in the bay.
- The Duke of Marlborough Hotel – New Zealand’s oldest licensed pub, established in 1827. These days, it’s much more respectable, with great food, stunning waterfront views, and live music in the evenings.
- Flagstaff Hill – A short but steep hike to a historic flagstaff site with panoramic views over the bay. This spot played a key role in New Zealand’s history, as Māori chief Hōne Heke cut down the British flagpole here four times in defiance, sparking a war between Māori and the British Crown.
- Passenger Ferry to Paihia – A quick, scenic ferry ride connects Russell to Paihia, the main hub of the Bay of Islands. While we stayed in Russell, Paihia is where we booked our boat tour for the next day.
Where We Stayed
Arcadia Lodge – $275 per night.
The accommodation was nice enough, but the owners were a little too salesy, and after kindly offering me a bottle of homemade chilli sauce to enjoy during our stay, (‘Go on take a bottle, he said’, ‘I just made a batch and those bottles are a bit runny, but please help yourself!’,) they then added an extra $16 to our bill for it at the end of our stay. Not a big deal, but a definite lack of transparency which left a bitter taste and cost them a review!
It was also more like a homestay than a hotel, with a set breakfast which was a surprise each morning. I quite liked that, but it depends on your preferences.
Food & Costs
Dinner – The Gables one night at the recommendation of our hosts, very expensive for not great food to be honest. I think our bill came to $150 (NZD). The next night we had fish & chips by the water which was lovely!
Russell was the kind of place I could have easily stayed for a week, soaking up the peaceful atmosphere and catching up on work while enjoying the stunning surroundings. But with so many adventures ahead, the next morning we set off for our Bay of Islands boat trip.
Day 4: Exploring the Bay of Islands
If there’s one way to truly experience the Bay of Islands, it’s from the water. With 144 islands, crystal-clear waters, and an abundance of wildlife, this region is a paradise for anyone who loves history, nature, and adventure.
We booked a full-day boat trip and were lucky enough to have Captain Marty at the helm—a guide who was equal parts historian, marine expert, and stand-up comedian. He packed the day with fascinating stories, incredible wildlife sightings, and just enough Kiwi humor to keep us entertained.
Things to Do on a Bay of Islands Boat Trip
- Cruise through the Hole in the Rock – This famous natural rock formation stands dramatically in the ocean, and if conditions are right, boats can pass through it.
- Wildlife spotting – We saw a pod of bottlenose dolphins playing alongside the boat, a huge manta ray gliding past, and just five minutes after some brave souls jumped in for a swim, a hammerhead shark made an appearance. No one was too keen on another dip after that.
- Urupukapuka Island stopover – This was one of the reasons I booked this particular tour. We had a three-hour stop on Urupukapuka, the largest island in the bay, covered in walking trails and offering breathtaking views. I had a small disagreement with my husband and stomped off to explore alone, only to take the wrong path down to a different bay. After scaling two steep hills to retrace my steps, I met up with him again as he had come looking for me. All was forgiven, but my legs weren’t happy about it.
- Marsden Cross – A historic site marking the spot where the first Christian sermon in New Zealand was delivered in 1814. The missionary Samuel Marsden saw this as the beginning of a peaceful relationship between Māori and Europeans—though history tells a different story.
Between island-hopping, soaking in the scenery, and learning about the region’s rich past, this was easily one of the best days out we had on our New Zealand trip. Whether you’re into history, wildlife, or just want to feel the salt spray on your face, a boat trip through the Bay of Islands is a must.
Where We Stayed
Arcadia Lodge, Russell – $275 per night
Food & Costs
Lunch – We took a picnic for our lunch stop at Urupukapuka
Dinner – Fish & Chips in Russell
The next day, we stepped back onto dry land to visit one of the most significant historical sites in New Zealand—the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.
Day 5: Waitangi Treaty Grounds and Kerikeri
The Bay of Islands isn’t just about stunning landscapes and marine life. It’s also home to one of the most important historical sites in New Zealand—the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.
In 1840, this was where Māori chiefs and representatives of the British Crown signed the Treaty of Waitangi, an agreement that would shape the nation’s future. As with many colonial treaties, things weren’t as straightforward as they seemed.
The treaty was written in both English and Māori, but the two versions had very different meanings. In the English version, Māori leaders ceded sovereignty to the British. In the Māori translation, they simply agreed to British governorship, retaining much more control over their lands than the British intended.
Unsurprisingly, this led to decades of disputes, land confiscations, and conflict between Māori and the Crown, with issues that still resonate today.
We took a guided tour, and our guide, CC, brought history to life with her depth of knowledge and quick wit. If you ever visit, I highly recommend doing the tour—it made all the difference.
Things to Do at Waitangi Treaty Grounds
- Visit the Treaty House, home of James Busby, the British Resident who played a key role in drafting the treaty.
- Step inside the beautifully carved Māori meeting house, Te Whare Rūnanga, which symbolizes unity between the two cultures.
- See Ngātokimatawhaorua, one of the world’s largest Māori war canoes, which is launched every year on Waitangi Day.
- Walk the stunning coastal grounds where history was made.
Waitangi Day is on February 6 each year, marking the anniversary of the treaty’s signing. For many, it’s a time to celebrate Māori culture and New Zealand’s unique identity. For others, especially within Māori communities, it’s a reminder of the broken promises, land confiscations, and ongoing struggles for sovereignty that followed the treaty.
After leaving Waitangi, we made our way to Kerikeri, just a short drive away. This small town is packed with history, fresh produce, and waterfalls, making it a great stop on any Northland road trip.
Things to Do in Kerikeri
- Visit the Stone Store and Mission House, the oldest surviving European buildings in New Zealand, dating back to the early 1800s.
- Check out Rewa’s Village, a replica pre-European Māori fishing village that gives insight into how Māori lived before colonization.
- Take the short walk to Rainbow Falls, a beautiful waterfall just outside Kerikeri.
- Stop at Makana Confections, where handmade chocolates are impossible to resist.
- Drive to Opito Bay for a quick walk and a scenic lookout over the Bay of Islands.
By this stage, we were feeling the effects of all the exploring, so we skipped Rewa’s Village and spent the evening relaxing before heading further north the next morning.
Where We Stayed
Kauri Park Motel – $200 per night. They gave us a free beer on arrival, which was a nice touch!
Food & Costs
Lunch – Café in Kerikeri
Dinner – Hot chicken & salad from the supermarket
Next, we continued our journey north to Mangonui, where we witnessed a dramatic helicopter rescue, ate fish and chips at the famous Mangonui Fish Shop, and explored the historic waterfront.
Day 6: Kerikeri to Mangonui
The drive from Kerikeri to Mangonui took just over an hour, winding through stunning coastal scenery and lush countryside. Mangonui is a tiny historic fishing town with a relaxed vibe, great seafood, and a rich past tied to whaling and Māori culture.
Not long into the day, we found ourselves in the middle of unexpected drama. While hiking the Mahinepua Peninsula Track, a stunning coastal walk known for its panoramic ocean views, a helicopter started circling overhead. Soon after, we reached a ridge and saw a hiker being airlifted off the trail ahead of us.
A few minutes later, we passed a woman hurrying back along the track. After speaking to a few hikers who had witnessed the incident, we learned that her husband had suffered a cardiac arrest. Thankfully, we later heard that he was conscious when rescued. It was a sobering reminder of how quickly things can change, especially in remote areas.
After the hike, we made our way into Mangonui itself, a picturesque waterfront town with a mix of colonial charm and laid-back seaside atmosphere.
Things to Do in Mangonui
- Mahinepua Peninsula Track – A stunning but moderately challenging coastal hike with breathtaking views. My husband called it “easy,” but my knees strongly disagreed. A wake-up call that I need to get stronger if I want to keep adventuring.
- Mangonui Fish Shop – This place claims to be “world-famous,” and while the fish was fresh and the views were lovely, a local later told us there’s a better fish and chip shop just down the road. That said, it was still a great spot to sit by the water and enjoy a classic Kiwi meal.
- Historic Mangonui Hotel – We stopped for a couple of beers at this classic old pub with great character and waterfront views. We ended up chatting with a lovely woman from Gloucester who had been living in NZ for years.
- Butler Point Whaling Museum – A well-preserved whaling station and museum offering insight into New Zealand’s early whaling industry. We didn’t have time for this one, but if you love maritime history, it’s worth checking out.
- Stroll along the waterfront – With only around 700 residents, Mangonui is tiny, but it’s the perfect place to slow down, take in the scenery, and enjoy the peaceful harbor views.
It was the kind of place where you could easily switch off from the world, put your phone down, and disappear into the quiet for a while. But for us, it was just a quick stop before heading even further north.
Where We Stayed
Acacia Motel – $185 per night. Very comfortable with a heated pool, which we relaxed in with a few cold beers. We also met Dave from Russell, a local tour guide, who shared some great insights about the area.
Food & Costs
Lunch – Mangonui Fish Shop – Around $60 for 2 (NZD)
Dinner – Drinks and bar snacks at the Historic Mangonui Hotel
Next up, we tackled the final stretch north to Cape Reinga, the northernmost tip of New Zealand, where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean collide in a dramatic swirl of waves.
Day 7: Mangonui to Cape Reinga to Kaitaia
This was the longest driving day of the trip, covering about 2.5 hours up to Cape Reinga, followed by another 1 hour and 20 minutes back down to Kaitaia for the night. Leaving Mangonui early, we headed into one of the most remote and untouched parts of New Zealand, where rolling farmland gave way to rugged, windblown landscapes.
Reaching Cape Reinga felt special. It’s not just a geographical landmark but a deeply spiritual place for Māori, who believe it is where the spirits of the dead begin their final journey, traveling down the roots of an ancient Pōhutukawa tree before departing across the ocean to Hawaiki, the ancestral homeland.
The most striking sight was where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean collide, creating a swirl of waves as the two powerful bodies of water meet. It’s difficult to capture in a photo, but standing there, watching the wild ocean in front of you, it felt like we had truly reached the edge of the world.
Things to Do at Cape Reinga
- Cape Reinga Lighthouse – The most famous landmark in the Far North, with breathtaking views over the meeting of the oceans.
- Te Paki Sand Dunes – These massive golden dunes look more like something out of the Sahara than New Zealand. You can rent a board and sandboard down them, but be warned—it’s a steep climb back up.
- 90 Mile Beach – A vast, windswept stretch of coastline that feels endless. While it’s technically a state highway, it should only be driven with a proper 4WD or as part of a guided tour (many rental car companies won’t cover damage if you attempt it on your own).
After exploring Cape Reinga, we made the long drive back down to Kaitaia, the largest town in the Far North, for the night. We’d been warned by locals not to stay there, but honestly? While it wasn’t exactly luxury, it was hardly Compton. A dodgy motel and a rough night’s sleep, but hey, all part of the adventure.
Where We Stayed
Wayfarer Motel – Terrible! $150 per night. Very basic with awful pillows. Would definitely not stay here again. Unfortunately not a great nights sleep before heading down the west coast the next morning.
Food & Costs
Lunch – Meat pie from a road vendor on route!
Dinner – Casual meal at Kaitaia – around $100 for two (NZD)
Next, we began the journey south again, this time along the wild west coast, heading toward Opononi and the Hokianga region, home to ancient Kauri trees and towering sand dunes.
Day 8: Kaitaia to Dargaville via Opononi
The next morning, we hit the road again, making our way toward the west coast of Northland, where the landscapes became even wilder and more remote.
Our first stop was Kohukohu, a tiny town with a handful of historic buildings and a laid-back vibe. From there, we took the Rawene Car Ferry, a short but scenic ride across the harbor, landing in Rawene, another sleepy historic village with a few quaint cafés and an artsy feel.
As we continued driving, things took an unexpected turn when we pulled over at a lookout near Opononi for a quick break. Below us, a man was stranded on the rocks, waves crashing around him as the rising tide edged higher and higher.
We stood there, watching with growing concern, when emergency services arrived. With no safe way to climb back up, they coaxed him into the water, letting the strong current carry him further down the beach to an exit point. It was a nerve-wracking moment, but he made it out in one piece.
After the unexpected drama, we continued on to Tāne Mahuta, the largest and most sacred Kauri tree in New Zealand, towering over 50 meters high and estimated to be around 2,500 years old.
We arrived just as a guided talk was starting, and at the end, the guide sang to the tree. The moment was truly magical—standing in silence, surrounded by ancient forest, listening to the soft, melodic reverence in the guide’s voice.
From there, we made our way to Dargaville for the night. After so much exploring, we were exhausted, and a quiet evening was just what we needed.
Things to Do in Opononi & Along the Route
- Rawene Car Ferry – A short but scenic ferry ride that connects Kohukohu and Rawene, offering great views of the harbor.
- Opononi Lookout – A great scenic stop that, for us, came with unexpected real-life drama.
- Tāne Mahuta – The largest Kauri tree in New Zealand, over 2,500 years old, and a must-see for anyone traveling through the west coast.
- Hokianga Sand Dunes – If you have time, take a boat trip across the harbor and sandboard down the towering dunes.
- Rawene & Kohukohu – Two charming historic villages, perfect for a relaxing stop with local art galleries, cafés, and Māori history.
Where We Stayed
A local Motel – $180 per night – very comfortable with great pillows!
Food & Costs
Lunch – Café stop in Rawene
Dinner – A burger & a wrap with a couple of cold beers at a pub in Dargaville
Next, we hit the road for our final stretch south, stopping at Puhoi Historic Village and Orewa Beach before wrapping up our Northland adventure.
Day 9: Dargaville to Whangaparāoa via Puhoi & Orewa
With the trip coming to an end, we took the scenic route back toward Auckland, making the most of the final few stops before returning to normal life.
Our first break was at Puhoi Historic Village, a charming little town originally settled by Bohemian immigrants in the 1860s. We stopped at the Puhoi Pub, one of New Zealand’s oldest, for a cold drink and a taste of history. It was a great spot to soak in the atmosphere and imagine life here in the early days.
Next, we stopped at Orewa Beach, one of the longest and most beautiful beaches just north of Auckland. After days of driving, hiking, and adventuring, we took a long walk along the sand, letting the fresh ocean air wake us up before the final drive.
By late afternoon, we arrived at Murray’s Bay in Whangaparāoa, where we’d lined up a house-sitting stay—a much-needed chance to slow down after all the exploring.
Things to Do En Route
- Kauri Museum (Matakohe) – One of New Zealand’s best small museums, telling the story of the Kauri logging industry and the incredible ancient trees that once covered the Northland region. It was surprisingly awesome! We ended up staying there a good 2 hours!
- Baylys Beach – A wild, rugged stretch of coastline, perfect for a quick stop and a breath of fresh sea air.
- Puhoi Historic Village – A charming historic settlement, home to the famous Puhoi Pub and the Puhoi Cheese Factory (currently closed much to my dismay).
- Orewa Beach – One of the best beaches north of Auckland, ideal for a relaxing walk before finishing the road trip.
Where We Stayed
House-sitting in Murray’s Bay (3 nights – Free)
Food & Costs
Lunch – Quick bite in Puhoi
Dinner – Homemade meal at the house-sit
We did the road trip in 18 days including the first 3 nights house sit, 2 nights in Whangerai and the last 3 nights housesitting, but for the sake of this post I’ve simply listed it out in single days for each stop. Many of the smaller places only need one night, but the bigger towns like Auckland itself and Whangerai would benefit from a bit longer if you have the time.
But after two weeks on the road, we had covered nearly every corner of Northland, from its wild northern tip to its ancient forests, historic villages, and breathtaking coastlines. It was a journey packed with unexpected adventures, stunning scenery, and a few surprises along the way.
Northland New Zealand Road Trip – Final Thoughts
Northland is one of those places that keeps you on your toes. Just when you think you’ve seen it all, it throws in a hidden beach, a quirky town, or a tree so ancient it feels like something out of a fairy tale.
This road trip took me by surprise in the best way possible. From spontaneous detours and unexpected history lessons to getting lost on an island and witnessing real-life drama unfold, every day felt like a new adventure. Some stops were planned, others just happened, and those often ended up being the most memorable.
If you’re planning a Northland New Zealand road trip, I highly recommend giving yourself at least 8-10 days to really take it all in. The magic of this region isn’t just in the landmarks—it’s in the slow drives, the friendly locals, the wild landscapes, and the feeling that there’s always something new around the next bend.
Would I do it again? In a heartbeat.
